That being said, boiled linseed oil (often shortened to 'BLO') is similar, except that it takes a shorter time to cure/dry. Then you will want to use a tung oil-based topcoat applied over an oil-based stain when you are staining or refinishing your special piece of furniture. I will assume you plan to wipe on and wipe off your PTO finish and not put on an excessive amount, (thus not expecting it to "flow" or layout" onto the surface in abundance). Forget about applying pure tung oil to a surface with a varnish coating. www.woodnewsonline.com. I generally don’t stain—I simply prefer natural wood color and grain patterns. What you want to keep in mind is that "oil" finishes should be based on a solvent of mineral spirits. Linseed Oil Yellowing/Discoloration Over Time. with your woodworking questions. I want to finish a maple neck first with several coats of Boiled Linseed Oil and then apply Tru-Oil over it - Should this be OK? This is why you must first sand a varnish (an oil finish) in between coats and create minor crevices for the next coat to better bond to the previous coat. So, what I do is start off with the body or neck sanded down to 600. I was a bit succinct in my first answer... ooh, I like idea of warming the Linseed Oil before application. Oil finishes require a mechanical bond to adhere to one another. Thanks for writing up your method. absolute saviour on a humid day. Seems a bit redundant. However, for general purposes, you can usually get a liter of boiled linseed oil for less than the same amount of Tung Oil. Your polymerized tung oil product over a cured www.highlandwoodworking.com Watco Danish Oil On the other hand, in my experience, linseed oil is much better for sinking into the wood for the first few coats. Probably not a pretty as your finish - but I just love the feel. Your polymerized tung oil product over a cured Watco Danish Oil , a boiled linseed oil finish or pure tung oil finish would probably be OK. Tru-Oil over Linseed is one of my favourite finishes. Unlike regular wood varnish that may be prone to scratching but not discoloration, linseed oil discolors over time. E-mail us It is not recommended for a rough and … Subsequent coats do NOT "meld" or soften previous coats for bonding. If the existing "oil" finish is some blend of products and has a significant "build" (maybe the oil finish has a good amount of varnish in it) your product could have adhesion issues. Your polymerized tung oil product over a cured Watco Danish Oil , a boiled linseed oil finish or pure tung oil finish would probably be OK. That gives a lot more liveliness of the grain in the finished object. The oil can't penetrate, and with nowhere to go, it … If you want to create a high shine, buff the last coat with a fine steel-wool pad. Then wipe away excess oil with a … Highland Woodworking | 1045 N. Highland Avenue, NE | There are a lot of products labeled as such, but there is no "standard" that manufacturers have to adhere to in calling their products an "oil" finish. Hence, you will probably need to do maintenance once or twice a year, or whenever you notice discoloration. If you have some inconspicuous place on the piece where you can apply a coat or two of your PTO over the existing finish to see how it behaves and looks, that would be ideal. Copyright © 2015 Highland Woodworking, Inc. In oil finishes with very little "solids" (say just linseed oil and no varnish added), a "build up" doesn't really happen and so additional coats could be applied with little to no sanding between coats. I've had good luck combining BLO with sanding sealer and denatured alcohol to make my own wiping finish. You can use tung oil as a sealer prior to applying the wood stain and as a topcoat. Of course the light sanding removes the slight brushing defects of the previous coat, but the sanding in between coats is critical for the bonding of the next coat. Tung oil is an easy-to-use transparent finish that is resistant to water, most liquids and mildew. This is because Tru-oil is primarily a varnish. Apply the tung oil in thin layers by wiping the applicator pad across the piece, left to right, evenly. BTW - I don't even sand my Tru-Oil, just lightly brush with steel wool after several coats. However, it does require some upkeep. Atlanta | GA | 30306 | 404.872.4466 Then you will want to use a tung oil-based topcoat applied over an oil-based stain when you are staining or refinishing your special piece of furniture. Linseed oil or Tung oil would not qualify. We are big believers in the mantra "know your methods and know your results BEFORE you start to refinish your mother-in-law's piano bench." we'll send you a free Highland Woodworking hat. , a boiled linseed oil finish or pure tung oil finish would probably be OK. Tung oil is an easy-to-use transparent finish that is resistant to water, most liquids and mildew. I will assume you plan to wipe on and wipe off your PTO finish and not put on an excessive amount, (thus not expecting it to "flow" or layout" onto the surface in abundance). Unlike regular wood varnish that may be prone to scratching but not discoloration, linseed oil discolors over time. Generally, pure tung oil isn't a great finish on it's own- it doesn't entirely harden, it takes a long time to not be a sticky mess, and it has to be refreshed fairly regularly. Wait at least 12 hours after you apply the oil-based wood stain before applying a tung oil topcoat.